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Solo in Madrid (as a female traveler)

  • Writer: Kari
    Kari
  • Aug 14, 2019
  • 13 min read

The way that our flights worked out, Ryan went home a couple days before I did from San Sebastian. That left me alone in Spain to explore for about a day and a half.



Since my return flight was out of Madrid back to the states, I decided to kari-venture and spend some time in Madrid.


I was nervous about being in Madrid alone because I'm small, female, and no hablo español. To ease my anxiety (or maybe exacerbate it with too much reading...) I read a ton of blogs, articles, and online resources before going to Spain so that I would be safe in my traveling. I'll share some of my safety tips on traveling solo and the resources I found useful at the end of this post.


Once I got to the airport I went to terminal 4 where I could catch a shuttle to my hotel. Before leaving the airport I also made sure to purchase a Tarjeta Multi-Pass for 1 day (this would allow me 10 trips on the metro, which was more than enough) to get around the city. The pass was about 12 euro. Learn more about how to purchase one at the airport.


One of the things that made my trip easier and gave me peace of mind traveling alone was to book a hotel that offered a shuttle service to and from the airport. Although a hotel was pricier than an Airbnb or a Hostel would have been, I knew I would be safe and wasn't taking any chances on a safe location or quality. I also knew I could avoid the metro line to and from the airport, where there tend to be many pickpockets.


When I got off the plane I simply used WhatsApp to phone the hotel and let them know I was ready for pick up.


I stayed at the Hotel Clement Barajas and it was absolutely lovely. It was 80 euro for my one night stay, which included transportation to and from the airport and breakfast. The staff were very helpful, spoke English, provided me with maps, let me check in early to my room, and answered all my questions. They also helped me to book my seat on the shuttle for the next day to catch my flight. This hotel was perfect for my stay because there was also a metro stop just around the corner which made it very easy to get around the city.


Hotel Clement Barajas

Avenida General 43, Madrid 28042

Tel: 00 (34) 917460330

Metro: Atocha

Hotel is a 10 minute drive from the airport.


I ventured out and spent most of my day in INCREDIBLE art museums. One of the things that was FABULOUS about being alone was that I could linger as long as I wanted at a painting and no one else was getting bored. In fact, I was never alone.

I spent my entire day with Rubens, Rembrandt, Picasso, Dali, Dominguez, Magritte, Goya, Poussin, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Teniers, Lorena, Titian, El Greco, Raphael (not the ninja turtle), Velazquez, Murillo, and Ribera.



Oscar Wilde said, "Life imitates art far more than art imitates life."

Destinations


Hours: 10am to 8pm (last entry is 1 hour before closing time)

Cost: 10€ there are some free days

Metro: Opera


The Royal Palace is the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family and has 3,418 rooms. The family no longer resides there and it is used only for ceremonies. It is the largest functioning Royal Palace in Europe. Inside the Palace you'll see paintings from Caravaggio, Juan de Flandes, Goya, Velazquez, and frescoes by Tiepolo, Giaquinto, Teniers, and Mengs. It is also home to the world's only complete Stradivarius string quintet.


2. El Brillante Sandwich Shop.

I stopped at the infamous tapas bar and Sandwich shop to grab some Bocadillos. It was a great place to grab some reasonably priced calamari for lunch, and it was delicious.



3. Reina Sofia Museum

Hours: 10am to 7pm (ticket sales end at 2pm)

Cost: 10€


As I stood in line for the Reina Sofia Museum, a gentleman in front of me turned around and said something to me in Spanish. I couldn’t understand what he said so I sheepishly replied with a, “Lo siento, no entiendo. ¿Hablas Inglés?”


He then asked, “is this your first time in Madrid?”


Crap! I just identified myself as foreigner...

I hesitantly responded, yes, offering no more personal information than that, paranoid about why the gentleman was talking to me.


“Ah, here have my ticket. I will get another,” he said to me as he handed me his ticket and walked over to another booth window to get a ticket.


"Everyone should see this museum and traveling is expensive," he said as he walked past and into the museum.


My thoughts immediately began to race.


I definitely wasn’t looking spectacular enough to be hit on (tired, no make up and jet-lagged), so I figured his kindness couldn’t have been out of any romantic interest.

Plus, I was wearing my wedding ring.


…Was this some sort of pick pocket scheme? Buy the tourist a museum ticket and then when I’m distracted by looking at the art, snatch my bag?


Or maybe this was my episode of Taken and I was somehow being marked as a target to be carried off by those thugs…

Where's Liam Nesson when you need him?


So what was the deal?


Turns out it was just a really kind gesture and I was being paranoid for no reason. Thank you to the kind gentleman for buying my museum ticket and sorry for thinking you were a creeper. *Paranoid solo traveler*



In my viewing of artworks in Madrid, I ended up NOT going in chronological order, which ended up offering me a unique experience and perspective on how we grow as human beings and adopt new ideas.


The Reina Sofia Museum starts at the end of the 19th century. In this era of conflict, modernity, progress, political fronts, and cultural ideals, art became a way of expressing and seeking understanding, especially in Spain.


In the late 19th century Spain faced a dilemma. Then a country of delayed development, Spain sought to modernize and adopt advancing political and economic structures, but Spain also needed to retain and preserve her cultural traditions and historical identity.


With this background, and as Spanish artists mingled with Parisian artists, an artistic revival in Spain began.


In 1929 the Second Manifesto of Surrealism was published. With this publication, surrealist art was no longer about transforming art; it was about transforming society and moral doctrines as well.


Surrealism is known for revealing the deepest emotions and psychological processes, blurring the realms between awake and asleep, between reality and imagination. It has long been on of my absolute favorite art movements because of the visceral connections I make each time I see and learn about a surrealistic piece.


Two artists are credited for bolstering this artistic revival in Spain—Salvador Dalí and Óscar Domínguez.


Oh, how I love Salvador Dalí. If I could go back in history and meet someone he would definitely be on the list. It’s always such a pleasure any time I get to see his artwork in person. I have to say this was my first introduction to Domínguez, so I still have much to learn about his work, but I liked what I saw in the museum.


As World War I drew to a close, surrealism faced barriers of traditionalism and fell under attack. Fascism, authoritarianism, and Nazism idolized tradition, authority, and enforcement—the very antithesis of surrealism.


Then, in 1936, Spain is abiding a Civil War, and World War II looms just around the corner. In 1937 Picasso comes onto the scene with a special request from the Republican Government for the Spanish Pavilion. Picasso is asked to create a work of art for the Paris International Exhibition. Guernica is brought into being.


Seeing Guernica was one of the most impressive art-viewing experiences I have ever had. As I walked through the museum, I was greeted with crude sketches from Picasso’s childhood, early work as an artist, and even as he began his preliminary sketches for Guernica. I was surprised by how many studies he did in preparation for this piece.

He wanted to get every face right, every pose mastered, an entire composition artfully assembled.


As an artist myself, I found it empowering to see the evolution of his artistic skill, and his process behind the creation of Guernica. I learned that Picasso was having a hard time producing anything for the exhibition (even the greats get creative blocks).

Then the bombing of Gernika took place just two months before the show and launched Picasso in attacking his canvas. In just two months he produced over 50 drawings/sketches and modified the large canvas several times!!


The piece literally stole my breath away as I rounded the corner and saw it illuminated on the colossal wall. I had heard Guernica was big… but it was BIG.

too bad no photos allowed.


Guernica is a painting of the bombing of the town Gernika by the German and Italian armies and stands as a 20th century testament against oppressive regimes.




4. Museo Nacional Del Prado

Hours: 10am to 7pm

Cost: 15€

Metro: Banco de Espana and Atocha Stations


Traveling tip: If you can get to Europe before you turn 26, do it! Most of the museums will be free or significantly cheaper. Another blessing in Madrid was arriving at this museum, worried about money and finances, only to find out that I could get in for free! The Lord was watching out for me and blessing me. I was able to show the ticket counter my passport for my birthday date and they let me in for free since I was under 26 years old and counted as the student rate. (Granted, we both got a laugh out of the fact I was turning 26 in just 1 month and barely squeezed in for free)


This museum is truly spectacular. Unfortunatley, no pictures allowed.

When you first walk in you enter a long corridor of enormous, floor-to-ceiling length fleshy paintings. Hallmark of which artist? If you've taken any art history you may guess it.


Yep - Rubens.


Rubens is well known for his glorious ladies and voluptuous nudes. He was one of the most influential painters of the Baroque era. One of the things I admire about Rubens work is the way that he treats the female body as remarkable, curvaceous, and distinct to his artistic legacy.


Some of my favorite works from this museum were:



Much of the art in this museum was certainly transportive. Transportive art enlightens the mind and evokes feeling.

We can learn a lot through our feelings.


In some eras, being a painter was like being a religious educator and a photographer across decades. Art survives longer than people do and conveys our values.


I have to wonder how they executed such master pieces. It is not a wonder to me why some pieces took years to complete, only how the artists had the willpower to not give up on their masterpieces.


How did they sculpt marble and make it look like liquid!?!


As I went through the museum I also couldn’t help but think about this dilemma:

Why do we want to be bigger and grander than we are? Should we be content with where we’re at, or should we aspire to be more than we are?





It was awesome after a full day of walking and being out in the heat to come back to a clean, gorgeous room with a bath to soak my achy feet, put on a bathrobe and watch a chick flick. I think this was one of the best things I did before taking the LONG flight back to Utah.


I didn't have a lot of time in Madrid, so there are certainly some sights I missed out on that I want to see on another pass through the city: Madrid's hidden gems

  1. Stroll Gran Via

  2. Hang out at Plaza Mayor

  3. see Mercado San Miguel

  4. check out the flea markets at the Rastro

  5. Churros & hot chocolate at San Ginés (They’ve been making hot chocolate and churros since 1894)

  6. La Tabacalera Museum

  7. Spanish Inquisition Tour

  8. Eat Japanese food in a World War II bunker YUGO

  9. Templo de Debod (Egyptian temple in the middle of madrid)

  10. Javier Puerta Museum of Anatomy

  11. Dolmen de Dali


On Being Safe and Solo:


My biggest recommendation is to take the precautions you would take in any unfamiliar big city. Don't walk alone at night, avoid isolated areas, be aware of your surroundings, keep your belongings in sight, don't flash your valuables or carry large sums of cash, and be conservative with sharing personal information with strangers.


You don't need to be polite--it's more important to be safe.

Creating boundaries to protect yourself is important. Use a firm voice, body language, and facial expressions to fend off any unwanted attention.


All you have to do is watch Taken to feel like traveling alone will mean you'll get kidnapped by thugs and sold into sex slavery, but Many women travel safely and solo every year without incidents. (remember Hollywood is Hollywood for reason...)


I felt safe traveling in Madrid. Madrid is generally very safe for women travelers.

Be aware pickpockets are probably the most common incident you could encounter.

The metro line to and from the airport is a particularly targeted area, so make sure you lock your luggage and bags and have them in sight at all times. If you have a backpack, hold it in front of you to prevent sneaky hands from digging into your bag behind your back. Cross-body bags will be more difficult to snatch than backpacks.

Don't keep anything in back pockets.

Stay informed:

  • Enroll in STEP (it's free). You'll receive notifications about anything going on in Spain that the US Embassy is concerned about. They'll send you safety updates if there are are concerns you should know.

  • You can also follow the U.S. Department of State on Facebook.

  • Spend some time on this website researching your destination. Learn entry/exit requirements for Spain, local laws, customs, medical care, crime, road safety, and what to do in case of an emergency while oversees. The U.S. Department of State assigns travel advisory levels for countries on a system of 1 through 4. They are:

  1. Exercise normal precautions

  2. Exercise increased caution ( Spain is a Level 2 travel advisory due to increased terrorism in Europe over the past couple years and pickpocketing. See specific travel advisory information for Spain here and in the Spain Fact Sheet for information on U.S. relations with Spain.)

  3. Reconsider travel

  4. Do not travel

  • Know where the nearest Embassy is in case of an emergency. Keep this information on your person, not in your hotel room. It won't be of much use to you there if you end up needing it. U.S. Embassy Madrid Calle Serrano, 75 28006 Madrid, Spain Telephone:(34) 91 587 2200 Emergency after-hours telephone:(34) 91 587 2200 Ask to speak to the duty officer if you need emergency assistance outside business hours. Fax:(34) 91 587 2303 E-mail:askacs@state.gov


Prepare for Emergencies (as much as you can)

  • Keep all of the documents you may need in a secured, password-protected electronic format that you could access from any computer. In the event that your bag/purse gets stolen or you forget your phone somewhere I always find it really helpful to have hotel confirmations, flight ticket info, IDs, insurance info, and copies of my passport, credit and debit cards in an electronic format. There are plentiful internet cafés so you can find a way to access your information in an emergency if needed.

  • Electronic documents are also a good idea so that if you're out and about you're not carrying tons of precious documentation with you, but will have access to it in an emergency situation if needed. It's a good idea to think about alternative ways to communicate outside of your phone, in case you lose it or it gets stolen.

  • For example: update your social media status often and send regular messages to family and friends to let them know how you're doing and where you're at.

  • Don't store all your documents together. In the event that your bag or purse gets stolen, you don't want to lose everything. I always like to divvy up my cash throughout my bags (Some in my suitcase, some in my handbag, some on me in a place or two) and I keep my passport separate from my cards and other IDs. It's bad enough to lose one of these documents, but at least you may not lose all of them if they're spread out.


Avoid looking too lost:

  • This sounds dumb, because everyone is going to get lost, but the key here is not to be the tourist holding open a map in the middle of a crowded plaza or on the street with a confused look. This is like painting a bullseye on yourself for pickpockets. Instead, step into a shop to check your map or into a bathroom stall. Try to check your maps at your hotel or when you stop for a meal.


Stay connected:

  • Don't pay ridiculous USA rates for international data. You can easily get a pre-paid SIM. I didn't want to get lost or be without a phone, and I didn't want to pay $15 a day for a week of being in Spain just to have data for using maps and getting around. You can purchase a pre-paid SIM with enough data for the whole week for 15 euro. Just make sure your phone is unlocked or it won't work.

  • Alternatively - I've heard of others using pocket wifi devices like TEPPY. This might be another option if you don't want to try and find a phone store and have wifi right from the get go. I went with the SIM option because phone stores are usually at or close to the airport, and it was cheaper.


Avoid these areas:

  • Use Safe Around to find out what areas to avoid and what to watch out for in the city. In Madrid avoid:

  • Plaza Mayor Area. You might not totally avoid this area, because ti's the oldest part of the town and near the Palacio Real and the Nuestra Señora de Almudena Cathedral which are major tourist attractions. The key thing here is that this is a crowded area with lots of tourists, so there are pickpockets and bag-snatchers. Keep an eye on your belongings at all times if you choose to go here.

  • Puerta Del Sol & Santa Ana. This is the official center of Madrid.Pickpockets tend to work in groups here, especially during the day. Street performers may get angry and chase you if you try to take their pictures without paying them.

  • La Latina. Another area that you may not totally avoid because it has some of the best tapas bars in Madrid and some fun flea markets. On Sunday the Rastrois a place where you can buy old clothes, antiques, and try street food. Just like Plaza Mayor, unfortunately, this is another heavily pickpocketed area. Be careful with your belongings if you chose to travel here.

  • Retiro Park. This Park is very safe during the day, but it is dangerous at night. There are also many pickpockets around this area as it is close to the Prado Museum--a popular tourist destination.

  • Lavapiès. This areas is a "no-go zone" as it is known for drug-dealers and prostitution. This area is not safe for tourists, especially at night.


Madrid Safety 2019

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